Starting out to replace the bed, we removed the pickup box. The undercarriage up to the cab is now in clear sight, might as well take care of that while the taking care is “easy.” Here’s the thing, the rear suspension and rear end performed without issue, and there was no detrimental rust, so why mess with it? It’s because we can, and the rational is that we will never have to touch it again and the value of the truck will increase. Really it’s because I want to.
Everything except the wheels were removed, and the brake lights were clamped to the frame so I could drive it to the sandblaster. I did use Purple Power and a pressure washer to rid it of 56 years of grease and dirt. This of course made the lights dysfunctional, but Rhonda followed me to the sandblaster. Look at the picture, Advanced Applicators, LLC did an exceptional job. I had never seen white metal before. The wheel hub in the picture was covered in grease and dirt. Now I will be able to learn if the leak is historical or still exists. It’s not at all clear how the backing plate is removed so that the wheel bearing and seal can be replaced. Do you suppose there is any chance the previous owner fixed the problem?
Ed’s Auto Paint helped a great deal when I asked for a primer that would work on the frame, engine compartment fire wall, and inside fenders. DuPont 2590S Epoxy DTM was the thing for me they said. I have long had a Fuji turbine HVLP sprayer that I purchased from a woodworker going out of business. My anxiety grew wondering if it would work with automotive paints and if I had the skill.
Previous experience painting my tractor with a standard sprayer said that proper adjustment was an art. Well, it worked great, and I am left confident about painting the pickup box. Yes, that is next, and eventually I get to the woodwork.
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