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Dad gave me a Conolon HCH fly rod when I was 11. He said, “Do it like I do. Keep the rod between 11 and 1 o’clock, and hold a newspaper under your arm when you practice.” He added, “Twenty percent of the fisherman catch eighty percent of the fish.” I have been self-teaching and trying to reach the twenty percent ever since. I built my first fly rod seven years ago thinking I could get more rod for the money doing it myself. I continue to suffer the same motivation.

There is a Ford 8N restored tractor in the barn along with a 67 Airstream trailer and 54 Chevy pickup. Is there any surprise that I would build a fly rod from a vintage rod blank?

4-Components and chairs

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Merry Christmas all. The ground’s been covered with snow for several weeks. This is unusual in this part of Colorado. I deal with my fishing withdrawals by doing a little casting on the grass. Now I’m suffering.

I’ve gotten committed to building four Adirondack chairs and had to take down the rod building to make room for chair painting — 39 parts per chair — two coats, then a final coat on the assembled chair.

Here is a picture of the component parts for the rod. I chose a Curly Koa wood spacer because the color is similar to the rod blank and the curl highlights the similar curl in the blank. The guides are Hopkins-Holloway titanium, chosen for their finish and in hope that they would require less preparation. The cork is red colored burl and burnt burl. The components all came from Anglers Workshop.

I won’t turn the blog into a beginning rod building class. You will see features of the rod being built, and I will present information that I didn’t find readily available. You can find good reference information at Flex Coat and a good document by Al Campbell that discuss rod building from the start.

The next post will get back to serious stuff when I determine the guide spacing. I’ve developed a spreadsheet that aids in spacing guides so that they don’t fall on a ferrule location.

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